Tiki bars are renown for their free-flowing rum and exotic drinkware, and while you’ll definitely find both at the recently-opened Cellar 335, the other star of the show is the restaurant’s food menu, created by executive chef/owner Jamie Knott.
Knott has worked at various restaurants from Ryan DePersio’s Fascino in Montclair to Ed’s Chowder House in New York’s Upper West Side. For Cellar 335, Knott created an American menu with Asian accents that rises above and beyond the typical fusion fray.
Dishes at Cellar 335 are meant to be shared tapas style. That said, many plates are small, so a party of two might want to try three or even four plates. However, while they’re small in size, they’re big on flavor. The avocado fried rice ($12) — which is actually one of the more substantially sized entrees — is a winning combination of creamy avocado with crispy fried rice accompanied by Napa cabbage, radish, sesame, soy, and cilantro. The rice has a delicate spice that keeps your taste buds yearning for more.
The crack fries ($8) — think patatas bravas without the tomatoes — are highly addictive, thick-cut potato wedges drizzled with bacon, scallions, and cheese sauce.
The crabcakes ($5 each) are another highlight. They’re small, but wonderfully sweet without being overly fishy. The dollop of seaweed and kimchi mayo also help bring out the crab meat’s freshness. However, the spicy cornbread ($2) — while moist and buttery — lacked any spice. Nevertheless, at $2 each, the scallop-sized breads are still a nice accompaniment to any dish.
Cellar 335 has a full dessert menu by pastry chef John Chomenko. We tried the tres leches cake, a spongy cake that was perfectly moist and sweet. Instead of a slice, you get four bite-sized pieces, which are great for sharing, but felt like more of a sample than an actual $10 dessert.
As for drinks, the tiki menu can be a bit daunting to the uninitiated with a host of ingredients like Damoiseau 110, Avuá Prata Cachaça, and Clément V.S.O.P. Rhum. Fortunately, you’re in excellent hands as Joshua Fossitt (The Dead Rabbit, Ward III) and Guillermo Bravo (Weather Up, Featherweight) concoct cocktails that could please the most hardcore tikiphile. Our server also provided excellent recommendations using simple descriptions like “fruity,” “strong,” and “sweet.”
We tried the “Fresh Water Mana” ($12), a sweet piña colada-like cocktail served in exotic, goldfish glassware. “Race to the Heavens” ($12) is a stronger cocktail that’s more like an Old Fashioned than an actual tiki drink. It was great, but served in an ordinary glass, it wasn’t the type of cocktail we expected from a tiki menu. Meanwhile, “Thick With Thieves” ($12) is another winning tiki drink with sweet notes of vanilla and a citrus-like finish.
Service was friendly and efficient. Our food orders came out remarkably fast and our water glasses were filled multiple times throughout the night.
The space has a great, dark atmosphere that’s brightened up with colorful murals by local artist Mr. MustArt.
At first glance, Cellar 335 is a welcome addition to the constantly evolving downtown scene. Fun drinks, a vibrant bar scene, and a unique food menu make it fit for everyone from foodies to large parties. Along with Madame Claude Bis around the corner — and White Eagle Hall above — it will help bring some nightlife to an otherwise quiet corner of the Village.
Cellar 335 | 335 Newark Avenue | www.cellar335.com
